Straying off course while driving from Perth to Margaret River is highly encouraged, with cheese tastings and dolphin interactions just some of the experiences you can have en route.

Western Australia is a road-tripping state, with umpteen memorable drive routes that take you from countryside to coast, bushland to burnt red sands. Most visitors to the west tackle the drive from Perth to Margaret River, both because of its ease of access and for the bounty of potential food, wine, and beach stops along the way. From point to point, the drive clocks in at just three hours. But, factoring in time to really explore this corner of the country, slow down and take as long as you please.

Perth

Kick off your road trip in WA’s sunny capital, where sprawling CBD parks spill over onto the Swan, and beaches are so long they bleed into the horizon. A morning dip at Cottesloe, followed by coffee and avocado bruschetta at Il Lido across the road, is a typically West Australian way to start the day. Sandy feet and beach towels are welcome in the alfresco area, where you can watch the morning traffic and waves roll in.

On the coast, it makes sense that everything centres around beach culture. But, in the city, art and history are at the forefront. Head into the aptly named ‘Cultural Centre’ in Northbridge, where the recently renovated WA Museum Boola Bardip, the Art Gallery of Western Australia, the State Library of WA, and the Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts lie. As the sun dips, find a table outside at Picabar, where the wine is funky, the food hearty, and the people watching A+.

Nature lovers needn’t be put off by the fact Perth is, indeed, a city. Kings Park—a 400-hectare park, larger than New York’s Central Park—sits on the western fringes of the CBD. Follow the paths to see the state’s unique native flora, or throw a picnic blanket down on the lawn in front of Frasers for unparalleled views of the city, Darling Scarp, and Swan River below.

Stop 1: Mandurah

An hour south of Perth is Mandurah (Mandjoogoordap to the Bindjareb Noongar people), an estuarine city known for its many water-based activities. Recently, it’s rocketed to stardom thanks to the installation of five of WA’s six timber Thomas Dambo ‘Giants’. Pick up a ‘Giants of Mandurah’ map from the visitor centre and head out to find Santi Iko, Little Lui, and friends. They’re spread out over the region, so you’ll need to drive or hire a bike from the Bike Kiosk.

Birdwatchers can pull out their binoculars at the Creery Wetland Nature Reserve on the north-eastern side of the Peel Inlet. It’s an important habitat for migratory waterbirds, including 22 species of shorebirds, and home to the quenda, an elusive marsupial endemic to southwestern Australia. Follow the boardwalks to get to the viewing platforms and bird hides. As you leave Mandurah to head further south, make one last stop at Lake Clifton to see the 2,000-year-old thrombolite reef.

Stop 2: Harvey

Harvey is one of WA’s more important dairy, beef, and citrus farming towns. Swing by Harvey Cheese to see what the industry is made of, tasting your way through their range of hard and soft products while watching the cheese-making process through the viewing window. Still hungry? Stirling Cottage Kitchen, in a replica 1850s cottage on the Harvey River, serves homestyle cake and coffee worth travelling for. Walk around the landscaped gardens post feed, or join a ‘Noongar Kaatdjin Bidi – Noongar Knowledge River Path’ walk, leaving from the Boola Bidi Visitor Centre next door and guided by local Aboriginal tour guide Lesley Ugle.

WWII history buffs will be surprised to learn that Harvey was once home to an internment camp (Camp #11), where many German and Italian migrants wound up when Mussolini and Hitler declared war on France and Great Britain. You can visit the Internment Camp Memorial Shrine, the only roadside shrine of its type in the world, just north of Stirling Cottage Kitchen.

Stop 3: Bunbury

Though often overlooked in favour of its more famed sibling cities and towns further south, the country charm and coastal influence in Bunbury, roughly two hours from Perth, are worth stopping for. Restless road-tripping kids can expend pent-up energy on the large playground at Koombana Bay foreshore while parents keep one eye on them, the other on the nearby sculptural piece, ‘Wardandi Boodja’. It’s a large, shape-shifting bust of an Aboriginal elder who watches over the land with bold wisdom and lightness.

Dolphins are known to frequent Koombana Bay, too; you can see them in front of the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Stand knee-deep in the shallows with volunteer guides and watch them cruise around.

Before moving on towards Busselton, stock up on car snacks at Little Spencer Coffee Co. Their soft, New York-style cookies are a hit with everyone, as are their beautifully made croissants and danishes. A spot of retail therapy doesn’t hurt, either. There’s a concentration of boutiques on Victoria Street—Afez of the Heart, Sabotage, Life & Soul, and Imogino—where you can find everything from embellished cushion covers from Morrocco to the latest dress from Spell.

Stop 4: Busselton

Busselton, the gateway to the Margaret River Region, has really come into its own in recent years. Of course, the 1.8-kilometre-long, walkable Busselton Jetty has been its identifying landmark since 1865. But, a new underwater sculpture trail at the ocean end has given visitors even more reason to stop there. You can self-dive or snorkel it or join a tour with Dive Busselton Jetty. If you don’t have any dive experience, try their underwater SeaTREK: a walk on the ocean floor wearing old-school-style dive helmets and air tanks.

Toast to a walk well done or a successful dive with one of Shelter Brewing Co.’s session-able ales. The mammoth beer hall, which looks out at the base of the Busselton Jetty, was a driving force in the tourism revival of the city. Another was the opening of Busselton Pavilion, a mega-pub and wine store at the back corner of the Busselton Central shopping centre. Drop in for rotisserie-cooked scallops with homemade XO and white anchovies on toast, or take a seat at the wine bar to tour the region via reds, whites, and roses.

Stop 5: Dunsborough

Just 25 minutes further up the cape is Dunsborough, WA’s answer to Byron Bay; it’s laid back and coastal, but there’s a distinct level of refinement when it comes to eating, drinking, and shopping here. Grab a coffee-to-go from Merchant and Maker—perhaps some local cheeses and salumi for your charcuterie board later on, too—and start your rounds of the boutiques on Naturaliste Terrace and Dunn Bay Road. You’ll find high-end activewear, relaxed linen beach co-ords, and plenty of swimwear. Reward your efforts with a Danish ice cream from Elski afterwards.

Lunch could be at any number of restaurants, but Wayfinder and Meelup Farmhouse both have an ease to them without compromising on quality. The latter is great if you have kids, as there are resident Highland cows, silky chickens, and alpacas for them to meet and feed.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a stop-in at Dunsborough if there weren’t beach visits. Drop into the region’s most popular beach, Meelup Bay, for a dip in crystal clear and impossibly calm water, then follow the Meelup-Eagle Bay Road for the most beautiful beachside drive. There are car parks all the way along, with plenty of white sand bays to explore.

Margaret River

The last stop on the road trip, but most certainly not least, is Margaret River, Western Australia’s wine, surf, and gourmet food hub. On the drive from Dunsborough to Margaret River, you’re spoilt for choice in beach, brewery, and winery stops. A more unexpected stop is Ngilgi Cave, a karst cave system off Caves Road just outside Yallingup. Continue along Caves Road, calling in for photos at Canal Rocks, wine at Marri Wood Park, Swings & Roundabouts, and Cherubino, and a swim down at Gracetown Beach. Just outside of Margaret River Town Centre, you can even sample gin and whisky at Margaret River Distilling Company.

When hunger strikes, head for a casual burger and soft serve—all made by hand—at Normal Van, an American-style diner in the heart of Margaret River Town. For a more elevated meal, sit down to a 14 or 23-piece Japanese degustation at Miki’s Open Kitchen or a seven-course tasting menu at de’sendent, the new project from the owners of the now-closed Aramia.

Anyone who’s anyone in the surf world in WA lives in Margaret River, and for good reason. Surfer’s Point is a World Surf League competition stop, producing some of the state’s best waves. The strong reef break is reserved for experienced surfers only. But nothing is stopping you from sitting in the amphitheatre with a piping hot serving of sustainably caught fish and chips from Hooked Up and watching the surfers ride the waves as the light fades.

Explore more of Margaret River, from the region’s unmissable wineries to the very best Margaret River restaurants.

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